Brennan Wines – from a New York state of mind

Family enterprises always ooze passion with artistic flare, dutiful care of the end product and boundless enthusiasm.

The Brennans have excelled in these areas of winemaking since Murray Brennan, the father, purchased a landholding in 1994. Originally from the ‘foreign region’ of Auckland, and an oncologist, Murray had been smitten by the Central Otago’s rugged beauty - particularly the wine potential of Gibston Valley.

There, the high quality fruit from the hand-planted, handpicked vineyards was sold to another high quality producer, Peregrine Wines. But then Murray travelled to the United States to expand his training in oncology. While there, he met and married a New Yorker and his son, Sean, was raised in the US. Eventually, in 2006, Murray returned from his overseas sojourn to take up the position of winemaker.

Sean had worked in wine retail in New York, and had also helped out with some in both the US and Australia. He gained his vinous university degree from Roseworthy in Adelaide. Two years of working in a relatively cool climate with significant grape diversity stood him in good stead for his Otago return.

The Otago vineyard is surrounded by some iconic yet collegiate neighbors. Vali Wines and Mt Rosa are a stone’s throw away. The soils in the region are alluvial with glacial schist. These features can add minerality to already complex flavours.

Pinot Noir is dominant, taking up eight of the 10 hectares of planting. Other varieties include Pinot Grigio/Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Muscat, Gewürztraminer and Otago’s only Tempranillo.

Sean is a fanatic in the vineyard. The “off season” is still a busy time, with attention to detail and maintenance that will give next vintage its best chance to shine. All grapes are handpicked and the sorting process begins in the vineyard as individual bunches are directed into different pathways that will ultimately result in a wine of high quality.

Having had a predominately New York upbringing, it is easy to sense the American influence. New York itself is about being big, not gross, individual but not gaudy, and full of confidence. In general, the wines have great fullness of fruit, rich flavors and robust structure.

The philosophy of slow but deliberate growth will steer Brennan Wines into a sound future. The first US exports have begun. A standalone Riesling will be released. Zinfandel is being planted - all inspired by that Hudson River line.

Wines tasted

2015 Brennan B2 Trio Gibston - light green to yellow colour. White peach, some rose petals, grassy notes with hints of Chinese 5 spice. Fresh fruit flavor on the anterior plate with mid palate acid. Plush aromatic wine to have with white Castella.

2015 Brennan B2 Pinot Noir Rose (70% Pinot Noir, 30% Tempranillo) - spicy cherry notes with a hint of bramble. Fresh, smooth fruit flavors that ebb and flow. Supported by subtle tannins that allow the wine to pair with a range of foods such as chicken mushroom vol-au-vent.

2015 Brennan Tempranillo – dusky red in color. Youthful, flirtatious nose of dark cherry fruits, spicy plums and hints of earthy florals. Ample fruit flavors with white pepper spices. Medium tannin structure.  Have with some mild Sopressa.

2015 Brennan B2 Pinot Noir - dark red in color. Powerful bouquet of dark berry fruits, spicy savoury notes, with secondary floral herbal nuances. Powerful fruit ascends on the palate and is sustained by masculine grippy tannins. An excellent wine with duck and abalone risotto.